Everything You Need To Know About Kundan Jewellery
Kundan jewellery is a popular type of Indian gemstone jewellery that is desired by most women. Favoured for weddings and special occasions, kundan keshri, as it is also known, showcases an amazing, elaborate form of art. It involves carefully setting polished precious or semi-precious stones, and uncut diamonds called Polki. The stones are set with a gold foil that sits between them and their mount. The name kundan means refined gold, which refers to the pure molten gold foil used as a mount for the gems.
HOW IS KUNDAN JEWELLERY MADE?
The process of making kundan jewellery is challenging and even skilled craftsmen may need months to complete a single kundan necklace. What’s more, it’s not the job of just one artisan; there are usually a lot of people involved in the entire process, working on the various aspects of kundankari, till the piece or set is ready to be worn.
The process starts with a step called Ghaat, which is the skeletal framework of the piece. Then wax is poured into the frame and moulded as per the design, and this is called the Paadh procedure. The next step is called the Khudai, wherein the stones and diamonds are fit into the piece. Next comes Meenakari which consists of enameling to add detail to the design, following which gold foils are cold soldered using burnishing to hold the gems in the Pakai process. Lastly the gems are polished by a technique called Chillai, and the item is ready.
THE ORIGINS OF KUNDAN JEWELLERY IN INDIA
One of the oldest forms of jewellery in India, kundan is said to be brought to the country by the Mughals. While it dates back thousands of years, its origins can be traced to North India, mainly Delhi. It was popularized by the Mughals, and seen in the royal courts in their era. It then flourished in Rajasthan and Gujarat as well. Although the original designs were made in gold, it later got successfully popular with the common man when it was copied to silver. Nowadays, they are also made in a faux metal base. In contemporary times, kundan jewellery is world famous, and the best place to get a piece or set is said to be Rajasthan, with Jaipur, Bikaner and Nathdwara being the epicentres for kundan jewellery in India.
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